Describe what happens to a deep-water wave when it enters shallow water and eventually breaks
What will be an ideal response?
As a wave approaches the shoreline from deep water, the circular orbit of water molecules within the wave begins to interact with the bottom. The circular orbit flattens out and forms an ellipse. This means that the top portion of the wave is travelling faster than the bottom portion of the wave. Water piles up and when the height of the wave is 7 times the wavelength, then the water plunges forward creating breaking "surf."
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