What causes a wave to break when it reaches shore? What will be an ideal response?


As waves enter shallow water, the broad waves of deep water become sharp-crested. This
transformation begins at wave base, one-half the wavelength. The wave feels the seafloor, and the
orbital motion at the bottom of the wave is disrupted. The wave is pushed upward by the sea bottom
and becomes oversteepened. Eventually the crest plunges forward as a breaker.

Environmental & Atmospheric Sciences

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Animals had begun to inhabit the land before plant species evolved. Indicate whether the statement is true or false

Environmental & Atmospheric Sciences

The resistance of a mineral to scratching or abrasion is known as ________

A) luster B) cleavage C) streak D) hardness

Environmental & Atmospheric Sciences

Which is not a main soil-forming factor?

A) Climatic B) Geologic C) Topographic D) Chronological E) Human activity

Environmental & Atmospheric Sciences

A strong wind must blow continuously in one direction for nearly three days for the largest waves to develop and form

a fully developed sea. a. True b. False

Environmental & Atmospheric Sciences