Why does wave refraction occur?

a. Wave lines approach shore and enter into different depths
b. The density of the wave alters in shallow water
c. Waves break perpendicularly to the shore
d. Waves stack up on shore and bend


ANS: A
The variation in depth causes the waves to not break simultaneously. Sections of the wave line that
enter shallow water first slow down, but segments still in deeper water keep their original speed.
Information can be found in the section Deep-Water Waves Change to Shallow-Water Waves As They
Approach Shore.

Environmental & Atmospheric Sciences

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